Tuesday, November 20, 2012

From AHHHHH!!!!! To Ohhhhh... Corrective Color AKA The Hairdresser's Worst Enemy

Whether its your client, your coworker's client, some other salon's client, or they did it themselves, corrective color is NEVER easy.  It's probably the single most thing in my hairdresser world that makes me want to throw up, scream and make my lower gut feel yucky all at the same time.  Impressive, I know...

Last week I had a client come in who was scheduled for a single process color.  It was not scheduled incorrectly, but in reality it was.  The poor girl came in looking like she had no color on her hair at all.  After sitting her in my chair, she informed me that she had henna in her hair about four months ago and she wanted to go lighter all over, Henna: Pain in the butt to get rid of.  Its a metallic dye that can be actually pretty damaging when trying to remove it.  I won't even attempt to use all the scientific lingo my boss did last week in explaining to my client, JoJo why henna is actually not better to use than regular hair color. Long story not so short I had to strip JoJo's hair.  Which means I had to bleach it to remove all the henna and possibly any other color that may have crept in there unbeknownst to either of us.

AAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!


This was her hair today after I stripped it.  I used foil and paneled it all the way around with 30 and 40 volume mixed.  I left the root area out because there was no color on it and I did not want it to get too light. Its hard to tell in this picture but the first half inch of the "orange" is actually quite blond. My mistake was that, even though I was trying to avoid lightening the natural hair, I brought the lightener up too high. This is a picture she was sending to her friend as both of us (I more secretly) were freaking out.

No matter how many times I have done correctives, I still get really nervous.  You can never predict how someones hair is going to react to what you are about to do.  Even though I did do a test strip on her hair last week, its still hard to tell how saturated her hair was with the henna, which can build up and make it more difficult to penetrate. So, at this point it was time for me to apply her base color.  She wanted to be a warm medium brown, about a level 6. So, knowing that her hair is dark and it will most likely pull warm no matter what I put on there, I mixed Redken gels 6NA and 6N with 20 Volume. I liberally applied this color to her root area and was not too particular about it getting on the pre-lightened hair. The color did make that really light part pretty ashy. As I noticed that happening, my hands started shaking and I wanted to vom.

I also knew that I needed to pull color through her ends and it would need to be warm to counteract any muddiness that may occur. I mixed Shades EQ 7GB, 7G, and 6GB. Luckily, I was able to mash that warm color into the super ashy part up top and let it sink in. I let it all sit for 20 more minutes while I ate my lunch. Mind you, the whole time I was applying the color, JoJo was asking how it was looking and I reacted totally calm and collected. Later, she told me that she could tell I was nervous. Once the color was finished processing I told her we may have to glaze it again to ensure the validity of the color. I was secretly jumping up and down because I could tell I made the right choices with my colors and It looked really good. I did end up doing another glaze with Shades 6NB and a little 6GB.

Ohhhhhhh......


That's right! It looks amazing!! Thanks to JoJo's patience, and my killer instincts, the color turned out fantastic.  Yeah, there are a couple spots that are a bit iffy, but she knows that it will take a couple times to be perfect.

So, when doing a corrective color, always follow your instincts.  If you think you made a mistake, go back and fix it. Remember that everything is fixable and DO NOT FREAK OUT!!


Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Am I a Vegetarian?

No.  I am not. Bacon.  I do, however, enjoy delicious alternatives to meat.

I recently learned in my studies, one does not need quite as much protein as one may think. Most humans adults need about 50-60 grams of protein a day.  If you ingest more than your required amount it gets stored as fat.  I used to think I needed to be eating a lot of protein during the day.  Especially if I was planning on working out later.   Then I would have a protein shake after my work out.  For some reason I could not figure out why I was not losing weight.  I assume now that one of the reasons was because of excess protein.

Here's how to calculate how much protein you should be having per day:
Divide your weight in pounds by 2.2 and then multiply by 0.8.  For example, 150/2.2x.8=54.54

So if you weigh 150lbs you should be having about 54 grams of protein every day. If you have any questions about how much protein is in anything in particular please, don't hesitate to ask.

Instead now I look to alternative protein sources that are also good sources of fiber and other nutrients.  Legumes: Peas, garbanzo beans, soybeans, peas, lentils, etc...; Grains: barley, oats, quinoa, buckwheat, etc...; VEGGIES!!: artichokes, Brussels sprouts, peas, kale, mushrooms (especially Asian types), spinach, yams, etc..; Nuts, fruit.  MAN! There is protein in almost everything you eat.  Excess animal protein can end up being really bad for you and nearly toxic.  That brings me back to one of my first entries... Remember my mention of the Atkins diet? Yeah...

Now, don't get me wrong, I still eat meat.  I eat chicken maybe once or twice a week, but my portions are significantly smaller than average.  As far as red meat goes, I only eat it maybe 3 times a year at a restaurant or someone else's house.  It's really not terrible for you in moderation.  None of it is.

A lot of people think that you need protein to get a good workout in.  That protein is what gives you the fuel you need to keep going or to lift weights more efficiently.  Most people are wrong.  Carbohydrates are what fuel you towards a faster, longer workout. You, obviously, want to choose the healthy carbohydrates, like whole grains and low sugar fruits, but you get the idea.

Have you heard of this beautiful thing called Pinterest?? That site has helped me find some really yummy recipes that are really healthy and extremely tasty.  Here are two recipes that get you the right amount of everything delicious and good for you that won't make you feel guilty in any sort of way...

Quinoa and Kale Patties



I made these last night and as completely blown away.  They not only look like turkey burgers, they taste even better. I used mostly egg whites instead of 4 eggs. I topped mine with a couple slices of fresh tomato, fresh lemon juices and ground pepper

  • 1 cup quinoa
  • 2 cups water
  • 4 eggs, whisked
  • 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese
  • 3 spring onions, sliced thin
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 cup steamed kale, chopped
  • 1 cup breadcrumbs ( GF friends: be sure to use GF breadcrumbs. I always make my own.*)
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
If you happen to already have leftover cooked grains on hand, this recipe calls for 2 1/2 cups. Otherwise, whip up some quinoa from scratch... Rinse 1 cup of quinoa thoroughly and place the grains in a medium sauce pan with 2 cups of water. Allow quinoa to soak for 15 minutes. Then, with the lid on the pan, bring the water to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook until quinoa is tender and has 
absorbed the liquid - about 20 minutes. Let cool to room temp.

In a large bowl, mix together cooked quinoa, eggs, Parm, spring onions, garlic, salt, steamed kale, and breadcrumbs. Let everything sit for a few minutes to absorb the liquid. You want the batter to be moist, but not runny. Form patties and get your pan ready for cookin'.

Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Cook up to 6 patties at at time (don't overcrowd the pan). Cover the pan and let the cuties cook for 7-10 minutes until the underbellies are a deep rich brown. Flip and cook the other side for another 7-10 minutes until both sides are nice and brown. Let patties rest on a cooling rack while you finish the next batch.


Crispy Parmesan Soy beans




HOLY HANNAH!! These things are tasty... They do not keep well so make sure you eat them in one sitting.  Very easy to do...

  • 1 package frozen shelled edamame
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
  • ¼ tsp garlic powder
  • salt and pepper to taste
  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
  2. Cook the edamame according to the package. Usually along the line of boiling for 4-6 minutes. Let cool until the edamame no longer gives off steam.
  3. Mix parmesan cheese, garlic powder, salt and pepper in a bowl. In separate bowl, toss edamame with olive oil.
  4. Add the parmesan-spice mixture to the edamame and toss until evenly coated.
  5. Spread on a cookie sheet and bake for at least 15 minutes.  I took it out and shook it up then put it back in for another 10.  Got it real nice and golden crispy after that.  YUUUUM!!!




Wednesday, November 7, 2012

The Hovering Client Companion

I think this picture is from that show Jersey Licious, but it looks like someone is butting in where they shouldn't right??



Ok... So this is my gripe for the day. Actually it's my gripe for always.  THE most annoying thing to deal with at work is when a mother, or a husband, or a friend, or boyfriend, or girlfriend, whatever the case may be HOVERS.  Do not do that.  I had a client recently that was new to the salon.  Its always a little nerve racking for everyone involved when a new client comes in.  Not only do you, as the stylist, not know what is about to walk in, but the client doesn't quit feel comfortable yet either. So this woman comes in with her friend who had been to the salon once before.  I introduced myself and shook her hand. She introduced herself and referred to her friend as her "stylist".  Right then I knew I was gonna get annoyed...

I get the client back to my chair and begin the consultation.  As I start in so does the friend.  I totally understand that they had probably been speaking about what she should do with her hair color before she came in, but please just let me ask the questions first. Alright, so the friend wants her to have darker hair because without it she "looks too pale".  I countered with, if her hair is darker she will look even paler. I resorted to showing her some pictures in a magazine to give her a couple ideas of the highlights I thought she should have.  The friend questioned every picture I showed her. "But this is not dark hair". That's correct, I was showing her some other options that I, the professional, thought would be better. Long story short, she got gorgeous honey colored highlights that both complimented her skin tone and brightened up her face.  

So... don't bring your friend into the salon and introduce her as your "stylist" to your actual stylist.  Friends that hover over the stylist are only pissing them off, not helping.  Your stylist knows what is best for you even if your friend knows you better. It really stresses us out to have someone standing over our shoulder watching our every move and questioning what we are doing.  That usually only happens in beauty school when you are being tested and when we have to apply for a job in a new salon. The worst is the hovering mother of a small child. One of the reasons I do not enjoy doing children's haircuts anymore.

 Could you imagine if I had listened to the friend? I would be doing a corrective color right now hands down.

YOUR STYLIST IS ALWAYS RIGHT! HA!

I wonder if this was an accident...



Here's your recipe for the day:

Roasted Butternut Squash (we can all thank my current boss Adrienne for this gem)

One large butter nut squash peeled and cubed
One Medium yellow onion diced
2tbsp Olive oil/oilive oil PAM
Kosher salt to taste
Pepper to taste

Preheat your oven to 350. Place squash and onion on a large cookie sheet.  Drizzle with olive oil or spray with the PAM.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Bake in oven for 1 hour. Stir it around about half way through.  

Serve immediately.  Its so so SO good.  I am hooked.  The second winter squash is palatable, I buy two a week. Obsessed. Its sweet and salty and the onion gets all caramelized  YUM! 



Tuesday, November 6, 2012

The Grocery List/New Product list




How beautiful is this picture? This is (almost) everything that I bought at Trader Joe's yesterday.  I spent less than $90 and this food will last me well into next week, even with two people eating it. Here's the thing... if you only allow yourself to shop at places like Trader Joe's  or Whole Foods, then it is virtually impossible to be tempted to buy shitty food! And once you see how pretty it can all look once it's laid out on the table it just makes you want to eat it.  At least that's how it works for me.  I feel proud of myself when I look down into the cart and all I can see is veggies.

Here are a couple recipes of things I like to make on a regular basis that are so delicious, you won't believe they are low fat, high fiber, and low calorie:

Sauteed Brussels Sprouts with Red Onion and Wine:

I know the new trend is to cook sprouts in bacon fat, but come on...

1 1/2 cups of quartered FRESH sprouts
1/2 large red onion diced
2tbsp Olive oil
1/4 cup Red wine
1tsp Kosher Salt
Pepper to taste

Heat up you pan and add the oil.  Let the oil get nice and hot then drop in the onion.  After they get a little see through add in the sprouts.  Stir for a couple minutes, add salt and pepper and wine, cover for 10 minutes. Remove lid and stir.  At this point the sprouts should be nice and tender.   You are going to let the wine cook down a bit so it almost evaporates. About 10 more minutes. Remove from heat and serve.

(Use more or less of anything in this recipe, except the olive oil)
Believe me, its way more flavorful than the bacon kind.  And obviously healthier for you.  Simple changes like that is all it takes.  If you substitute flavorful things for fattening things, your taste buds won't know the difference.

Last nights dinner...

4 Organic Chicken Sausage sliced on a diagonal
Half a bunch of asparagus
1 medium zucchini sliced in rounds and then halved
1/2 yellow onion diced
2tbsp Olive Oil/ Olive oil PAM
Salt and Pepper to taste

Saute the onions with the oil until clear. Add in the sausage (its precooked so you can just let it soak up the onion flavor for a minute. Add in the asparagus and let simmer for a couple minutes, then add the zucchini. Add salt and pepper and cover for 5-10 minutes to steam the veggies. Open stir and serve. Veggies should be nice and tender.

Super easy and really fast. Sometimes I add wine and a couple laughing cow cheese wedges to give it a bit of a sauce.



OK so now in to the hairdresser side of me...


Yesterday I finally made it to the beauty supply store.  Everyone keeps asking me if I have ever tried
 "Its a 10".  The answer is no.  So I was at the counter and there it was.  I am always a skeptic when it comes to trying new products, but since so many of my clients have asked me about it I bought it and I used it last night. Smells delicious and my hair feels really smooth.  I did not blow dry my hair with it, but I will tomorrow and see what I think. I will tell you, if I don't blow my hair out, it is very wavy.  My hair dried almost straight with this stuff in.  Whether I am OK with that is yet to be determined.

If you have any questions about hair products, color, or cuts lease let me know.  Same goes for food recipes and grocery list ideas.

GO VOTE!!!





Monday, November 5, 2012

It's Not a Diet, It's a Way of Life

I'm sure everyone has tried a fad diet at least once in their lives.  And then as soon as you stopped following you gained back every pound you lost and possibly a few more. The reason behind that is because fad diets are bullshit.

Atkins diet. It's crap.  Think about it, you are ingesting cheese, meat, dairy, nuts, all things protein and fat loaded and are told not to eat a lot of fruit or carbs. What the hell makes you think this is healthy? What happens after you start eating carbs again is your body absorbs as much of the sugar in the carbohydrate as it can and then it is stored as fat. Its just a really dumb diet. The South Beach diet is  very similar to this one, except wants you to make healthier choices. Again, its a low carb diet and once you stop you can gain the weight back.

So the solution to the issue is to make healthy eating a way of life. Find a happy balance in a way that allows you to eat things you like but in serious moderation. I did a little bit of research a few months ago on the Paleo diet and found it to be kind of great. I started to loosely follow the diet and actually lost weight very easily.  I did not feel like I was being deprived of anything and I was not even close to being hungry. I didn't need to lose a lot of weight, but I did lose about 10lbs in less than two months simply by changing my eating habits.

I also purchased a book at the end of last winter called The 17 Day Diet.
This book is pretty good.  My problem is that it wants you to stop drinking alcohol and stop eating chocolate.  Not an option.  No, I am not an alcoholic, I don't think, but I want to have my wine on a Saturday night and I eat dark chocolate every day. Yes, every day. Honestly, other than that it is a great concept.  It teaches you how to welcome carbohydrates back into your life in a healthy way.  While the diet starts out virtually carbohydrate free (only eating two pieces of fruit before 2pm, and no bread or anything of that nature), after 17 days, it allows you to slowly start eating them again in moderation.

SO, what I have learned from both the Paleo and The 17 Day Diet is this, Tons of veggies, a little bit of fruit, lean meats, LOW carbs, and no artificially processed food. Except for yesterday, because I was seriously craving a grilled cheese sandwich, I never buy bread. Does that mean that I won't eat it at a restaurant if its in a pretty basket in front of me? No. But I will have one piece and without butter. Speaking of butter, I have dramatically reduced my dairy intake.  I went from eating yogurt every day to no yogurt at all.  I eat a bit of goat cheese crumble on a salad here and there, maybe some cream in  my coffee, and of course my dark chocolate (how much milk is in there I do not know). OH! And a once yearly grilled cheese sandwich ;)

That is what works for me.  It is not a fad, it is just the way it is.  I accept that in order to maintain my weight, or perhaps lose a few more pounds, and to have a healthy life, I CANNOT go back to the way I used to eat.  I'm totally fine with that.  I actually enjoy it.  Once your body gets used to eating a certain way it starts to crave the healthy options. I think that is what makes it easier.  Its also very helpful if you are slightly OCD like I am.

Actually reading about all of this in my text book makes all the choices I made even more relevant.  I love that I can apply my current knowledge with what  am learning to help and advise other people who want the same thing out of life that I do... Happiness.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask. If you don't like what I have said then keep it to yourself.

Until next time...





Sunday, November 4, 2012

In the beginning...

When I was 16 years old, I decided once and for all that I was going to be a hair dresser.  I was the friend that everyone came to for them to color their hair, or do their makeup for the talent show and I loved every second of it. After high school I enjoyed my summer off and enrolled in beauty school the following September. Lets just say, Aspen Beauty Academy made no effort to claim to be the best school ever. In short, it was a shit hole.  The teachers knew absolutely nothing about modern styles or techniques. Luckily for me, I started working as an assistant at a hair salon my senior year of high school, so I was able to learn how do everything I needed to know in order to not get laughed out of a salon.

10 grueling months later I graduated! Did you know you are expected to learn anatomy in beauty school? The entire upper torso and limbs.  I know what the smallest bone in the wrist is, its insane. Anyways, After a couple months I got a job in a great salon, Salon Central. I spent several awesome years working there, on and off. On one of the off times at Salon Central I moved to New York City. I had always wanted to live there since I was a kid.  I grew up visiting family in the city and and just outside the city and I could never get enough of it, So I saved some cash, did my research, packed my shit, and ran.

About 9 months after I moved to New York I met my boyfriend Derek.  Unfortunately, he did not live there.   Derek lived outside the city of brotherly love, Philly. So, a long distance relationship ensued. We took turns taking the bus between the two cities.  A couple months later I decided I was done with NY and moved back down to Maryland and went back to work at Salon Central. The salon and my clients welcomed me back with open arms. Gail, my lifelong boss/ 3rd mother is probably one of my favorite people.  In total that woman let me work for her 3 times.  Unfortunately for everyone involved, I pulled a Katie again when Derek and I decided to move in together... in Philly.

A year and a half later here I am, living in Philly with Derek and our two beasts, Barrister the husky/Shepard mix and Peanut the terrier/sewer rat mix. I have found another amazing salon in the city, Hush Salon Philadelphia and have been there for over a year.  I have been doing hair professionally for over 10 years. At some point in the last year, I decided I needed some other trade or talent. I recently decided to learn more about my obsession for healthy eating/living and decided to enroll in a nutrition and wellness couch program. In a few months I will be able to council or coach individuals that are interested in living a healthier lifestyle.

This blog was the idea of one of my clients.  I agreed with her when she said that I should write about my "journey" (we both thought the use of the word journey was a little common, but it is what it is) and share my experience.  Working full time and taking care of a household is enough for anyone, but add on learning a new trade and you are bound to lose a few hairs over it, maybe even a few pounds!

Here's my crazy little family...

Peanut aka The P aka Little P aka Pnizzle
Barrister (doesn't really have any nicknames )

The Branskers